Uogashi Bar Tamatomi, Tsukiji - 魚河岸バル 築地 TAMATOMI

Wandering through the narrow alleyways of Tsukiji's outer market after dark is a fairly surreal experience. There is no trace of the drama and energy of the early morning operations, when the world's largest fish market is a buzz with action: wholesalers and retailers noisily tauting for trade, lorries whizzing periously through the maze of streets, narrowly missing (or perhaps aiming for) the crowds of gapping, SLR totting tourists who descend on the area, and generally make a nausence of themselves. After hours the place is eerily quiet. Shops are all shuttered. The sightseers are gone. The only sign of life comes from men in white sushi shop uniforms standing forlornly outside a garishly lit, and depressingly empty, 24-hour chain store.

But what lured me to the area was not the prospect of a cheap sushi dinner, rather a seat at one of Tokyo's best kept secrets: Uogashi Tamatomi, a tiny 10 seat tapas bar which continues to do a bustling trade while the rest of the market sleeps.

Born and raised in Tsukiji, owner and chef Takamasa Mochizuki is a true Edo-ko. For four generations his family has made a humble living catering to the needs of the local workforce; former incarnations have been a condiments store, an o-bento shop, and more recently a tobacconist. So when Mochizuki-san inherited the space, relatives advised him to open a donburi or sushi shop - both sure-fire sources of revenue; advise that he promptly, and willfully, ignored. Travels had broadened his horizons and firmed his resolve. His dream was to open his own casual eatery where his friends could enjoy the best of Tsukiji's produce with Mediterranean flavours, washed down with a chilled glass of his preferred tipple, Lambrusco.

The dimensions of the space are impossibly small. The whole counter has to reorganise themselves each time a new customer enters to take their seat. It's so small in fact that there is no space for a bathroom. But somehow this just adds to Tamatomi's charm. These little inconveniences are insignificant when compared to the excellent food that comes out of the miniscule kitchen each night.

Given its location, there is only one protein on offer: fish - and plenty of it. For a non-mammal eater, like myself, his weekly changing menu is a pescetarian's delight. During the summer months, heat ravaged constitutions can be revived with a light and refreshing dishes like this new season sanma (Pacific saury) capaccio.

Or perhaps a shime-saba salad with a bright balsamic dressing.

This amadai (tilefish) dish was notable not only for being beautifully cooked, but because it served unscaled. Mochizuki-san had grilled it in such a way that the scales had became papery crisp; adding an interesting textural element to the dish.

But it's in winter, when fish is most bountiful and delicious, that I return to Tamatomi with almost maniacal devotion. And I'm not alone - it's the most difficult season to secure a booking.

Case in point: this crudo of kanburi - thickly marbled cubes of winter yellowfin which had been caught in the frigid coastal waters of Toyama. The beauty of this dish is the simplicity of its preparation: cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil, salt, pepper and a dash of lemon. The seasoning was perfectly balanced to enhance, rather than mask, the exquisite flavour of the fish.

The raw delights continued with a dish of tairagai (razor clam) capaccio, dressed in a piquant herbal marinade. I adore the texture and sweet succulence of this bi-valve, especially with sharp flavours to cut their richness.

The Mame Kinki (baby thornhead) fritto was light, crispy and delightfully fun to eat. 

While wine is available by the bottle, there is a by-the-glass selection of a red, a white and, of course, a Lambrusco. All are pretty decent, and - at only ¥500 a pop - very good value for money. 

Initially, I wasn't quite sure of the logic of pairing Lambrusco with fish, but my God did it make sense once I had my first taste; light, refreshing and with a good amount of acidity to cut through the rich olive oils that Mochizuki-san uses so liberally.

Lambrusco is a much derided wine due, in part, to the glut of mass-produced, cloyingly sweet swill that saturated the North American market in the '80s. In recent years, however, it has undergone something of a revival, with small producers cutting back yields, improving grape quality, and utilising traditional winemaking techniques. The result is a far cry from the cherry-cola like alco-pop of yore - this is now a wine to be taken seriously.

The 'genuine' Lambrusco of the Emilia-Romagna region is young, fresh, with the flavour of fresh berries anchored by a faint earthiness - and it's almost never sweet. Its gentle frizzante sparkle, acidity and dry finish make it a perfect partner for rich, olive oil based dishes.

Tamatomi's house Lambrusco, Cavicchioli Amiable, is a very reasonably priced entry point to this underrated style. It's simple, light and zesty, thought not much in the way of tannins or body, but a charming and very drinkable wine, nonetheless.

Foremost amongst the superior producers is Manicardi, from the hilly Castelvetro region of Emilia-Romagna. It's difficult to resist its lively violet foam, wild berry flavours and dry, savoury finish. This wine pairs beautifully with roasted fish.

And roasted fish doesn't get much better than Oma maguro. Available for only a limited season (October to December), and caught using the labour intensive ippon zuri method - single-hook hand-line fishing - which is unique to the area that gives it its name, Oma is regarded as Japan's highest quality, and therefore most expensive, bluefin tuna. While the up-market sushi shops of Ginza snap the prime belly meat, Mochizuki-san prefers to use the more humble, and less expensive, off-cuts such as this jawbone; oven roasted to golden perfection so that the meat literally fell off the bone. The gamey, rich flavour of the meat was enhanced by an infusion of fresh thyme - elevating this simple simple dish to something quite heavenly. Served with a side dish of rocket salad tossed through with a Reggio Emilia balsamico dressing, this was indeed a hallelujah moment.

Tamatomi was born out of Mochizuki-san's refusal to confirm to conventional ideas of what a Tsukiji eatery 'should be', and in doing so he has created a unique dining experience where the strict rules that apply to fish & wine do not apply. He serves apologetically simple, well executed food and easy-drinking wine without superficiality or artifice. For me, that's a recipe for success - and why converts like myself continue to make the pilgrimage his small but inviting door.

Closed on Sundays and all Tsukiji Market holidays. No English spoken. No English menu. If you don't speak Japanese think twice, or take a friend who does. Reservations at least one week in advance. 

Uogashi Tamatomi
03-6278-7765

Shin, Musashi-Koyama - 酒彩 SHIN, 武蔵小山

My reckless pursuit of good food and sake has led me on a merry dance around Tokyo's sprawling metropolis. So it never ceases to amaze me that my best discoveries are located a stone's throw from home, in the Koyama area of Meguro. Sake Dining Honoka is still my top choice of specialist sake izakaya, and Kagataya's sake selection has yet to be usurped by another bottle store. And now I can add Shin to my list of preferred sake destinations. 

Located a short distance from Musashi-Koyama station, Shin doesn't offer much in the looks department, but it sure makes up for its fugliness with great food and interesting sake at reasonable prices.

Named after owner, Shin Ito, this izakaya very much resembles its name sake: humble, welcoming and a little rough around the edges. Walls liberally plastered with nihonshu labels, displays of sake related paraphernalia, and rustic slab timber table tops give you the distinct impression that this is a manly drinking den... perhaps not the best venue for dinner with my Japanese 'mother' and 'little sister'. Thankfully, Mama and Tee-chan come from good country stock, and settled into their seats unfazed. 

The dimly lit main room has hongetsu seating for 10, while deeper into the space are counter seats in front of the small kitchen where Ito-san single-handedly prepares the all the food. Despite being a Monday night, the place was full when we arrived, and tables turned over several times throughout the evening with patrons who were familiar with the owner - Shin obviously has a loyal following. 

Straight down to business, I got stuck into the sake menu which has an interesting selection of famous jizake labels, as well as a few more obscure names I had never come across. As Shin specialises in namazake, stock levels are kept at a minimum. The benefit of this is that the sake list is updated daily, and customers can be assured that what they are being served it at its optimum.

On the evening I visited, there were 10 varieties of 23BY sake on offer, and, as it was early December, a showcase of half-dozen varieties of shinshu and shiboritate releases. As the name suggests, shinshu (新酒) is 'new sake' which has not undergone full maturation, while shiboritate (しぼり立て) is 'just-pressed' sake that hasn't had any maturing at all. Both are young, fresh and often brash in flavour, but give an insight into the potential of this year's brew.

I'm not a huge fan of these adolescent styles, but I couldn't pass up the opportunity to try Shichihonyari's Junmai Shiboritate Nama Genshu (七本鎗　純米しぼりたて生原酒 - Tamasakae rice 60%). Mama, who prefers a sweeter style, opted for the waiters suggestion of the Mutsuhassen Blue Label Tokubetsu Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu Funasake (陸奥八仙　青ラベル特別純米無濾過生原酒ふな酒 - 60%) made with Masshigura, a newly developed variety of Aomori table rice. As both were new season, unpasteurised and undiluted, they had plenty of punch and vibrancy. The Mutsuhassen had a lovely melon fragrance and soft mouthfeel, but was a little too sweet and assertive for me; I much preferred Shichihonyari's cleaner, more restrained flavour. 

Drinks sorted, we turned out attention to the food, and the attractive ootoshi plate that had been set before us. From top right: Mini oden, kaki no shiraae (persimmon mixed with tofu, sesame paste and white miso), fried sato imo, grilled aubergine topped with a barley miso, pumpkin salad, and ebi in 'American sauce' - a milder version of Cantonese XO sauce. Wow! I wasn't expecting this level of quality or plating to come out of the kitchen. And if the otooshi was any indication, Shin was about to blow away my low expectations.

The quality of the fish an izakaya uses in its sashimi moriawase is always a good benchmark for me, and I was more than happy with the grade of Shin's selection: kanburi (winter yellowtail), ika (squid), shime-saba (cured mackerel), uni, madai (sea bream/snapper) and autumn katsuo (skipjack/bonito) with a julienne of garlic.

This was my first encounter of Sakehitosuji, from Toshimori Shuzo in Okayama; a jizake brewery, which only use locally grown rice. Their Shiboritate 'Snail' Junmai-ginjo is made with Hyogo Kitanishiki rice 酒一筋 純米吟醸 かたつむり (兵庫北錦 55%), a new variety of sakamai breed from Nadahikari and Gohyakumongaku. The 'snail' had a floral ginjo nose and the assertive, tight taste one would expect from a new season's brew. Things calmed down as it approached room temperature, revealing some pleasant spicy and umami notes. 

A monster sized iwashi shioyaki (salt grilled sardine) had Mama in raptures. I watched in amusement and pride as she picked the bones clean, guts and all.

I couldn't get enough of the aburi shime-sabe with goma (sesame) sauce. This is surely the best way to enjoy cured mackerel - flame seared so that the skin crisps up and the rich flavour of the flesh is released. Fatty, fishy and deliciously moreish.

You won't find bog-standard izakaya dishes like kara-age on the menu here. However, you can get your greasy food fix with a plate of uni and hamo isobeage: deep-fried, nori wrapped totoro (grated yam), stuffed with sea urchin and conger eel, served with sudachi lime and smoked sea salt  - agemono elevated to another level.

The fresh ginjo fragrance and clean, balanced flavours of Sanrensei's Junmai-ginjo Muroka Genshu (三連星 純米吟醸　無ろ過生原酒 - Wataribune No#6, 55%) was a great match for all of the rich winter fish we were eating. It's definitely worth seeking out this Shiga sake.

A healthy portion of grilled aubergine and shitake salad topped with crispy flakes of fried nori was a delicious reprieve from all the fishy protein.

Kanae is a new label by Shunshumeijo brewery, in Nagano, makers of more widely known Ryozanpaku and Takizawa brands. I ordered the 23BY Kanae Junmai-ginjo Nama Genshu, (鼎 純米吟醸 生酒 - Miyama Nishiki 55%), but the waiter generously offered me a complementary glass of the newly released Kanae Akiagari Junmai-ginjo (鼎 純米吟醸限定 秋あがり- Miyama Nishiki 55% ) as a side-by-side tasting. Both had a crisp, fruity ginjo fragrance and slightly sweet rice flavour, with the younger of the two having a brash acidity that made you sit up and take notice. I much preferred the more subdued and balanced 23BY, but was thankful for the comparison, nonetheless. 

Mama went old school with the last order of the night: Ika no shiokara ochazuke. Ika no shiokara is basically squid that has been fermented in its own guts, and ochazuke is cooked rice which has green tea, water or - in this case - dashi poured over it. Put the two together and you have a warm, comforting umami bomb. Definitely not for the faint hearted!

Shin may lack the accessibility and big name sake labels of Tokyo's more renowned izakaya, but if you value good food and regional sake, served without pretension, then it's well worth making a detour to this little diamond in the rough.

Shin
03-3760-9596

Tokyo Natural Wine Bistrot: Le Verre Volé à Tokyo, Meguro - ル ヴェール ヴォレ ア 東京、目黒

Still reeling from Paris-syndrome? Well fear not, a little slice of the 10th arrondissement can now be found in the safe confines of Tokyo's 23 wards. A brisk 10 minute walk from both Meguro and Fudomae stations, Le Verre Volé à Tokyo is located a little off the culinary map, on Meguro-dori - an area more commonly associated with uber-chic design stores than dining options.

Despite the frigid December weather, on the night we visited, it was bustling with patrons. Obviously word has gotten out about the good food, great wine selection and amiable service of this newly opened eatery. (The dim lighting and full capacity meant it was difficult to take interior shots, so here are some I pinched from the designer's website)

If this tiny wine bistrot looks like it has been transplanted from the streets of Paris, that's because it has. The original Le Verre Volé, is a thriving wine shop/restaurant hybrid in a hip neighbourhood near Canal St. Martin. Set up in collaboration with the owners and a French designer, Ryotaro Miyauchi, has created a store which is Boho-Parissenne in both taste and aesthetic.

The speciality here is natural wine, thoughtfully selected from France's major wine areas, as well as some small producers from far-flung corners of the country. The walls of the narrow space are lined with a diverse range of bottles for purchase, as well as blackboard menus which list a few varieties by the glass. Bottles start from ¥3,500, and staff are more than willing to help guide you through the selection process. 

We snuggled into our seats at the copper-topped counter, and promptly ordered a glass of 'Welcome Abroad', from Domaine Mosse; a small natural winery situated in the heart of the Loire Valley's Coteaux du Layon appellation. This fragrant, biodynamic Chenin Blanc was initally quite sweet on the palate, but was balanced out by the nice clip of acidity and dry finish. A rich and dangerously drinkable wine.

The menu offers a small selection of entrees and plats of simple French bistro fare, made with local organic produce. As my companion and I had constitutions which were suffering the effects of the bonenkai season, we ordered gingerly. 

We started with light, though fairly pedestrian, plate of smoked salmon marinade.

My dinner date became quite animated upon tasting the baguette, declaring it to be as good as the bread she gets from her local Denen-Chofu bakery, Bigot, which we were to discover was exactly where it hailed from. 

A pretty plate of hirame (flounder), red daikon and coriander ceviche. The fish was deliciously tender, and a light marinade ensured that its delicate flavour was not overwhelmed.

The slightly reductive nose on Domaine Valette's Mâcon-Villages 2010 Chardonnay, told me that this was indeed a sans soufre (no added sulphur) natural wine. As I haven't had the best of luck with non-sulphur wines I was immediately apprehensive. However, my trepidation eased upon tasting its well-balanced, subtle fruit flavour. 
In comparison, the Touraine 'Le Brin de Chèvre', Clos de Tue Boeuf, made from the local Menu Pineau grape, was much more aromatic and vibrant. While a little short in the finish, it was a pleasant wine to match with seafood.

After a couple of wines, our resolve to only order entrees melted. Who were we kidding? Christmas isn't a time for austerity.
From the plats menu: Tara (cod) poêle with bio-organic vegetables and an ume beurre blanc. The fish was moist and flaky, but could have done with some citrus to counteract the intense buttery sauce.

The boudin noir (pork blood sausage - here it is served in a terrine shape) is a popular dish on the Paris bistro's menu, and judging by the number of plates of it that I saw whizzing out of the kitchen, it's being enthusiastically received by Tokyo diners, too.

The richness of the mains had done us in, so dessert was off the cards. Instead, we decided to get our calories in liquid form, with a glass of Domaine Mosse Anjou: a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon & Cabernet Franc. It had a wonderful dark berry aroma, and a rich and yet fresh flavour which was supported by a fine tannic structure. An expressive and approachable wine.

Apart from the Domaine Valette, all of the wines we tried that evening listed the addition of sulphur on their labels - something I am sure vin au naturel purists would sniff their noses at in contempt. Intrigued, I asked Miyauchi-san about his personal philosophy towards natural wine. The upshot of our conversation was that his selection process is based solely on taste and quality, not methodology. Some of the wines he stocks are unadulterated san soufre, some are biodynamic and loaded with sulphites, others are somewhere on the spectrum between the two, but all taste good in the glass. This pragmatic approach may have a lot to do with the fact that he spent time working at Domaine Mosse (and also explains why its wines feature prominently on the menu), whose philosophy involves natural fermentation with minimal intervention, along with sparing use of sulphur to avoid the excessive oxidation that is so prevalent in most natural wines. I only wish more natural wine sommeliers adhered to the concept of taste over ideology - it would certainly take the Russian Roulette anxiety out of ordering.

Throughout the evening, service was courteous and professional - none of that infamous brusque French attitude here. As the tables cleared and customers thinned out, I was able to chat with the staff about our favourite places to dine out in the City of Lights. I was delighted to discover that the head waiter had worked in the kitchens of some of Paris' most lauded bistros: Chez Michel, Les Cocotte and - my personal favourite - Chez L'Ami Jean. Why his experience isn't being utilised in the kitchen beggars belief! Mottainai, to be sure, but at least it gives you a measure of the talent on offer here. 

Le Verre Volé à Tokyo is the ideal venue for a leisurely boozy meal of small plates and interesting wines. And as the New Year dawns, I have made a resolution to return - in fact, I've re-booked already.

Le Verre Volé à Tokyo
03-3713-7505

Tokyo Izakaya: Kotaro, Shibuya - 高太郎、渋谷

Teiji Nakamura may not be a name many are familiar with, but you most certainly should be aware of the fine establishments of this renowned restaurateur. When an occasion calls for good food and sake with a touch of sophistication, his flagship izakaya, Namikibashi Namamura, and its equally impressive sister shop, KAN, have long been my destinations of choice. However, since the departure of KAN's talented head chef, Sasaki-san, I have been looking for a new shop to call home. Thankfully, I didn't have to search far as Kotaro, headed by a prodigy of Nakamura, has seamlessly filled the void.

Kotaro opened last year to much fanfare from the local foodie community and immediately drew praise from such luminaries as the izakaya guru Kazuhiko Ota, who is a regular. But, as with any place in Tokyo that has a buzz about it, getting a reservation was - and still is - frustratingly difficult. Despite my jouren-san (regular customer) status, I couldn't get a reservation there until early this year, and even then I had to book three weeks in advance!

Located behind the Ceralean Tower Hotel, in the tangled backstreets of Sakuragaoka, Kotaro has the trademark Nakamura look: stylish, contemporary ambiance combined with a wabi-sabi aesthetic. The narrow shop is dominated by an elegant wooden counter that encloses the focal point of the space - an immaculate kitchen, with a few table seats at the rear for groups of four. Because of its small dimensions, it seats only 22 diners, Kotaro immediately feels cozy and intimate. 

Before opening his eponymously named izakaya, chef Kotaro Hayashi rose through the ranks of Nakamura's establishments; beginning at Playground, in Shimokitazawa, before going on to head the kitchen at KAN for 10 years.

The influence is immediately noticeable on the menu, with many classic 'Nakamura' dishes making an appearance. What is also evident is that Hayashi-san pays close attention to seasonal ingredients, utilising produce from well-sourced regional purveyors and organic farmers. Along with its rustic washoku fare there are a variety of small plates of umami packed otsumami that pair nicely with sake.

On a late summer visit, a refreshing glass of French sauvignon blanc was the call of the day - I forget what it was, but it sure hit the spot. We settled into our seats and nimbled on a tasty otoshi of shintorisai and green soybean ohitashi, garnished with katsuobushi.

Sake lovers will take comfort in Kotaro's thoughtful selection of jisake - a rarity in Shibuya. They stock a variety of sake from 8 well-regarded kura: the first page of the menu lists lighter varieties; the second, more full-bodied sakes, with plenty of yamahai for those that like a more robust style.

I am always delighted to find offerings from Shizuoka on a sake list, and even more so when it's Kikuyoi; a kura which consistently produces excellent sake. We started with an old favourite, the Kikuyoi Tokubetsu Junmai (喜久醉 特別純米 - Yamada Nishiki 60%). This slightly golden hued sake has a fruity, pineapple aroma and a mellow, ricey junmai flavour. Dry and finely textured, this sake makes you want to go back for more.

Watching Hayashi-san's expert and rhymic knife skills was almost as enjoyable as eating the pretty sashimi moriawase he placed before us.

Not only is the sashimi of very good quality, it is also made with sustainable fish. From front left: shime-aji (white trevally), katsuo (skipjack tuna), shime-saba (cured makerel), sanma (Pacific saury) and shako. The soft purple-hued shako (Mantis shrimp) is a violent little crustacean which comes into season around summer. Its slightly grainy texture really sings with a spritz of fresh citrus.

A 'Nakamura' classic: Creamy, silken yakko (fresh tofu) dressed with a warm sesame soy sauce, topped with sauteed leeks, jako (fried baby sardines) and a chiffonade of katsuobushi. The soft, creamy tofu is perfectly complemented by the salty and crunchy topping. This is a dish which could certainly convert even the most ardent carnivore to the joys of the humble bean curd. 

Another consistently good sake that works well with summer seafood is the Ishizuchi Junmai Ginjo Green Label Funeshibori (石鎚純米吟醸緑ラベル槽搾り- Yamada Nishiki 50%), from Ehime. It's lightly fragranced, with a faint sweetness that is balanced out with mineral notes and a pleasant acidity. Crisp and refreshing like pure spring water. 

With the mercury still in the 30's, I had a craving for a bright and clean salad to combat my summer lethargy. Hayashi-san was sympathetic to my plight and generously offered to make us something off menu, rustling up a vibrant salad of fresh, organic aubergine, new season tomato and Tokyo bekana (a  small Chinese cabbage) with a piquant shiso and sesame dressing. Delicious and revitalising - he read me perfectly.

Sanma is a peak this time of year, and is ubiquitous on menus. A relation of mackerel, this humble and inexpensive fish needs little embellishment; salted and charcoal grilled (shioyaki), and a simple garnish of grated daikon seasoned with soy sauce and a splash of fresh sudachi lime is the best way to enjoy its richly flavoured flesh. 

Impressed by the summer menu, I immediately re-booked for autumn; a time when a cornucopia of harvest produce is available and fish, plumped up with fat after their long swim down from the cold waters of the far north, return to the Japanese archipelago in abundance. It's my favourite season for food.

Anago (sea eel), duck,  kaki (oysters) and buri (yellowtail) feature heavily on Kotaro's autumn menu, but what I was most excited about was the return of ankimo (monkfish liver). Anyone who knows me, will be well aware that the start of autumn heralds the beginning of my annual ankimo binge... and if Kotaro's homemade ankimo ponzu was anything to go by, it was going to be a dangerously delicious season. 

The clean and dry flavour of Taka's Tokubetsu Junmai (貴 特別純米長州の純米酒 -Yamada Nishiki/Hattan Nishiki 60%), from Yamaguchi, works well with the richer flavours of autumn food. It has an appealing fruity fragrance, with mellow sweetness and gentle acidity - very quaffable.

Another 'Nakamura' classic: potato salad. A simple dish elevated to another level with the addition of a perfectly cooked smoked egg and goma dressing. 

Shichihonyari is made by one of Japan's oldest breweries, Tomita Shuzo. Founded in the 1540's, near the shores of Lake Biwa, the history of this tiny kura is as compelling as the well-crafted sake they produce. 15th generation brewer, Yasunobu Tomita, may be young and worldly, but he also has the wisdom to continue to produce sake in accordance with the philosophy and traditional techniques of his forefathers. Shichihonyari Junmai Ginjo Namagenshu (七本槍 純米吟醸 垂れ口直汲み 生原酒 - Tamasakae 55%), made with Shiga's native Tamasakae rice that is pressed using a traditional wooden fune, embodies the taste and artisan craftmenship of this grand old kura. It has an appley ginjo fragrance, with a mellow flavour that finishes crisply, leaving your palate refreshed for another sip. Divine!

The penultimate dish was a hearty buri, tofu agedashi and kinoko ankage, that Hayashi-san divided into individual portions for my companion and me. Ankage is a thick, clear sauce made with kuzu (arrowroot) flour, so it has the slightly neba-neba consistency that my Japanese friends adore...and I struggle with. The buri was buttery; the tofu soft and pillowy, and the mild dashi flavour of the sauce was nicely enlivened by the grated daikon and dusting of yuzu zest. I really wanted to enjoy it, but that gooey texture puts me off every time. 

While my friend greedily finished off my bowl, I sort sustenance in a tokkuri of Souken Tokubetsu Junmai (宗玄 特別純米 純粋無垢 - Yamada Nishiki 55%), from Ishikawa. Elegantly fragranced and a clean mouthfeel, with plenty of flavour and excellent balance.  　　

Make sure to leave room for the bukakke udon which Hayashi-san makes by hand each day. It's a little nod to his Kagawa roots. 

Repeat visits over the past 12 months have left me in no doubt that the staff at Kotaro are on top of their game. Their passion and knowledge of seasonal produce is evident in the consistently good food and sake they showcase each month. But what I enjoy most about Kotaro is that it hits just the right balance between casual and sophisticated dining. It's a place conducive to conversation over plates of satisfying food, and the clinking of ochoko with good friends.

[A plea to foreign visitors: Please be mindful that this is a busy restaurant. If you are not proficient in Japanese, then out of respect for the staff, please consider going with a Japanese speaking friend, or booking at the more English friendly Nakamura]

Kotaro
03-5428-5705